Café Bern in the Nieuw markt in oldest Amsterdam is a hole-in-the-wall restaurant success story - where the menu hasn't changed in at least 25 years. And where reservations and lineups any night of the week are virtually certain. In fact the only thing that's changed is the smoking by-law that pushed people outside for their before and after dinner smokes (cigarettes that is!). This is a restaurant designed for sociality - all the dishes are fondus - meat and cheese with decent salads. I've eaten there on my own and with others - and I always want to return - the closest I've found to comfort food in Amsterdam. Even when eating alone, you're placed at a table with other strangers and conversations inevitably ensue! I was there again last Friday and enjoyed the food and company and felt like I was once again properly initiated into the city's local (and selected tourist) culture. Tonight as I walked by, then, I was surprised and entertained to see the place closed up tight with a hand-made sign on the door that says "VAKANTIE na 17 augustus WEER OPEN";-) Everybody needs a holiday - and here in Amsterdam in the heart of outdoor cafes and all-night parties - the staff of Cafe Bern are 'gone fishing'. I still have more to learn.
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